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It all starts with that dreaded message: “Hey girly, just thought I’d let you know…” And if you’re a lash tech, you know what's coming next—a retention problem!
I understand how tempting it is to attempt a full set in the time allotted for an infill, but DON’T! This approach won’t get you anywhere and will only cause issues for both you and your client.
So, what should we do instead? We need to assess what might have caused this problem. Ask yourself: “Did you get your lashes wet in the first 24 hours?” “Have you been swimming?” “Have you been in any steam rooms?” “Have you used face wash with oil in it?” “Are you washing and brushing them daily?” But before you ask these questions, consider what you, as the lash tech, might have done that could affect retention.
Retention issues are 50% client and 50% lash tech. Let’s explore some common mistakes we make that can impact our clients' retention.
Correct placement of the lash extension is crucial. Poor placement can lead to numerous problems. A good rule of thumb is to place the base of the lash extension 0.5 - 1mm away from the eyelid/lash line. Placing it closer than 0.5mm can cause the extension to brush off, while placing it further than 1mm can lead to drooping or twisting, potentially pulling out the natural lash.
Always attach the lash at a 90-degree angle to the eyelid. Failing to do so can result in “stickies” (when a lash attaches to a neighboring lash), which not only affects retention but can also damage the natural lash.
Retention problems are often linked to how you prep the lashes. This step is vital and not a one-size-fits-all process.
Let’s start with lash cleansing—specifically, shampooing. This method gently removes bacteria, oil buildup, and makeup, returning your client’s lashes to a fluffy state and providing the perfect starting point for an infill.
Next up is primer. This product prepares the lashes by creating the correct pH level for bonding the lash extension to the natural lash. Because it’s water-based, it keeps the lashes hydrated, ensuring a stronger bond. In contrast, an alcohol-based cleanser can dry out the natural lash, leading to “brush offs” or retention issues.
Superbonder is essential for the lash service. It allows the lash glue to cure properly, meaning your clients can get their lashes wet right after the service without risking retention issues. Let’s say that again for those in the back!
Each lash glue has its own specific preferences for humidity, temperature, and drying time. If you’re using a quicker-drying glue, ensure it matches your placement speed. Beginners should start with a slower-drying glue; if you use one that dries too quickly, it can set before the extension is properly placed, leading to brush offs.
Monitor your room's temperature and humidity; a hygrometer will help with this. Your glue is the most critical part of your lash service, so pay close attention to the environment and your attachment time. If you're unsure whether your glue is drying too fast, opt for a slower-drying glue to avoid retention problems.
Before you question what your client did to cause their lashes to fall off prematurely, reflect on the service. Ask yourself, “Did I do everything correctly for my client?” As long as you’re applying the lashes correctly and finishing the set with a superbonder, your clients getting their lashes wet shouldn’t affect retention.
