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Lash mapping can be tricky when you're new to the lash industry. With so many different styles and lash maps, it can quickly become overwhelming. Eye shapes like rounded, upturned, downturned, almond, wide-set, hooded, and close-set are just a few that your clients might have.
You may have heard people say that you can’t apply a cat-eye lash style to a client with a downturned eye shape. Technically, that’s true if you're following the traditional cat-eye lash map, where the shortest lengths are in the inner corner and the longest are on the outer corner. However, if we adjust the map slightly by reducing the length on the outer corner by two increments and placing the longest lashes ¾ of the way across the eye, this will automatically lift the eye, making it appear less downturned and more uplifted.
As a beginner, you’ll rely on three main lash maps that will become your ‘holy grail.’ I'll outline which eye shapes suit each of these styles, and I promise you'll be thankful for having these lash maps to refer to.
The doll eye map creates an open-eye look, making smaller eyes appear larger and more awake. It’s perfect for clients with sunken or deep-set eyes, as it brings attention forward. Additionally, it makes wide-set eyes appear closer together—pretty impressive, right?
The squirrel lash map gives a cat-eye effect to clients with downturned eyes, uplifting them and making the eyes appear more lifted without the longest length being at the outer corner. It’s also great for close-set eyes, as it creates the illusion of more length and space.
This lash map softens the look of rounded or bulbous eyes while creating an elegant, elongated effect. It makes larger eyes appear more defined, with a subtle cat-eye flick. Using shorter lengths can even mimic the look of wearing eyeliner.
By familiarising yourself with these three lash maps and understanding how they complement different eye shapes, you'll feel more confident in your lash styling techniques, whether you're just starting out or further along in your lash career.
