Handmade Fans vs. Premade Fans: Which is Better?

Ooooh, this could get heated… do we have a fan next to us?

Let’s start with the basics so we’re all on the same page.

What Are Volume/Russian Lashes?

Volume lashes are when a lash technician attaches multiple lash extensions to each of your natural lashes. By either pinching or creating them on a strip, they form a beautiful fan effect, adding volume to your lashes.

So, What’s the Difference Between Handmade and Premade Fans?

Handmade Fans

Handmade fans are created by the lash artist during the appointment, fan by fan. The process involves taking multiple lash fibers from the strip, fanning them, and then applying them to the client’s eye using a “lash wrapping technique.” This method takes significantly longer than using premade fans, but the result is a more customized set tailored to your desired look.

Pros of Handmade Fans

• Higher Pricing: More time spent means you can charge more for the service.
• Lower Product Costs: Handmade fans are cheaper to produce than premade fans.
• Seamless Look: The lash wrapping technique creates a smoother, more natural-looking set.
• Better Retention: Thanks to the lash wrapping method, the lashes tend to last longer.
• Fully Customisable: Lash artists can customise the width, length, curl, and diameter of each fan to create a truly bespoke set.

Cons of Handmade Fans

• Skill Required: Creating a handmade fan is difficult and requires experience to master.
• Time-Consuming: Handmade sets take significantly longer, though this improves with practice as fan-making becomes second nature.

Premade Fans

Premade fans are machine-made and arrive ready to use. The machine bonds the bases of the fans with a tiny amount of glue or heat. Lash artists simply peel the premade fan off the tray, dip it in glue, and apply it to the natural lash—similar to applying a classic lash. Premade fans are great for clients looking to save time.

Pros of Premade Fans

• Faster Application: Since the fans are premade, application is much quicker.
• Easier to Apply: With premade fans, the lash artist doesn’t need to concentrate as much; no lash wrapping is required, just placing the fan on the natural lash.

Cons of Premade Fans

• Higher Costs: Premade fans are more expensive than handmade lash trays.
• Limited Customization: Premade fans can only be customized to a certain extent, limiting the range of styles you can achieve. They also tend to look less natural due to their bulkier base.
• Weaker Retention: Since premade fans cannot be lash wrapped, retention is often poorer compared to handmade fans.

So, Which Is Better?

It really comes down to convenience vs. outcome. Both lash technicians and clients need to consider their preferences.

If you're a client with a busy schedule, premade fans may be the way to go, as they offer convenience and faster appointments. On the other hand, if you can dedicate the time every 2-3 weeks for a custom lash set, handmade fans are the better option for achieving the most personalised and long-lasting results.

For lash techs, if you’re new to volume lashes and find fan-making intimidating, premade fans can be a stress-free solution. However, if you’re a perfectionist looking to expand your range of lash styles and offer tailored services, mastering handmade fans is well worth the effort!

Fanning Techniques for Handmade Fans

• Rolling Method: This technique involves picking up the fan near the base, placing it back onto the strip, and rolling each side of the lashes at the base outward to create the fan.
• Pinching Method: With this method, take a small chunk of lashes from the strip. Use your thumb and index finger to pinch the base of the fan while using tweezers to gradually open the fibers and fan them out evenly.